Gusto
Nov 15th 2008
I like reading reviews – of films, books and restaurants – but I always try and make up my own mind where I can. After all, one person’s sushi is another person’s slimy raw fish.
A week ago I visited Gusto (the Alderley Edge branch). By chance, I read a review of the restaurant (albeit a different branch) a few days later, and coincidentally the reviewer had the same main course as me. She hated it. I loved it. To be fair, if you’re reviewing a chain, you can’t guarantee the consistency of the cooking. All I can say is the Gusto in Alderley Edge must be better than Didsbury.
The dish in question was grilled salmon with crushed potatoes, olives and sun-dried tomato mash. Her salmon was overcooked, her potato raw, and she deemed the olives and tomatoes ‘random and unnecessary’. My salmon (which admittedly I usually avoid for the very reason it tends to come overcooked) was beautiful, moist and tasty, the potato was perfect, and I loved the tangy edge that the olives and tomatoes gave it. Hey ho – can’t please all of the people all of the time.
Actually, I really enjoyed Gusto. The decor hasn’t changed since it was Est Est Est (which means unless you sit in a booth down the side like we did, you’re sitting in the dark), the acoustics are still terrible, and there’s still an element of Cheshire-setness about it (it is Alderley Edge after all). But the menu seems much more interesting, including several ‘healthy eating’ options.
I managed to clean the plate three times over. My beef carpaccio was soft and sweet, contrasting perfectly with the balsamic/onion dressing. The salmon barely touched the sides it disappeared that fast. And the blueberry and raspberry mess was so gorgeous I had to guard it vigilantly against my fellow diners, one of whom deemed it ’sexual’…!
We debated at length about whether the non-alcoholic cocktails we tried were overpriced. £3 for a glass that was mainly filled with crushed ice. But then the Honey Dew cocktail did taste delicious – mint, honey and ginger puree, apple juice and lime juice over crushed ice.
Most of the other dishes also went down well. The salmon fish cakes turned out to be one enormous moulded cake of fish topped with a wave of smoked salmon. The seafood risotto looked very impressive, with a guard of honour of up-ended mussels standing out proudly from the bowl. The only disappointment was one ‘healthy’ option – roast chicken, which was unfussy but good, on a bed of puy lentils which were very plain, boiled with no flavouring, which had to be rescued by a healthy slosh of balsamic.
With only one person drinking (a glass of rose merlot, which was very nice), the bill came to about £33 each for three courses and coffees etc. £1 of this is donated by the restaurant to a Manchester homeless charity. So, would I go back? Probably. Would I have gone in the first place if I’d read the other review first? I hope so.
Feb 17th 2009
I would say that the food in Gusto is pretty good. Agree about the “Cheshire Set” element being present..but no getting away from that. The person greeting you as you come in was polite and enthusiastic. Our waiter was cheery and efficient.
I would also add that the music is way too loud for a restaurant and pretty dire as well. Unfortunately half the building is supposed to be a trendy bar?
Jun 13th 2009
I really enjoy Gusto, regularly go to the Didsbury one, and quiet simply love their breads pre meal! Funnily enough I also had a time pondering on the price of the non boozy cocktails, but was pleased that something was available for someone who doesn’t drink alcohol! Thanks for your review- I really enjoyed reading it!